This weekend my work took an overnight trip to Nami Island (남이섬, or Nami-sum), an island in the Han River about 1.5 hours northeast of Seoul.

Nami Island is at point "G", Seoul is point "B", and god only knows what's at "B".
Nami Island is at point “G”, Seoul is point “B”, and “E” shows that I don’t use Google Maps with much facility.

The drive from Seoul to Nami-sum was beautful. Our van’s GPS took us on the scenic route (or: we got lost) though a bunch of small towns and villages. The country road mostly stuck to the banks of the Han River, so we had gorgeous views of the river to the south and forest every other direction. The fences alongside the highway were tastefully overgrown with flowering plants.

Most towns and villages had riverside parks and bike trails. A fair amount of land was dedicated to rice paddies that were protected by scarecrows.

These reminded me of "Howl's Flying Castle," and not just because I'm in Asia.
The scarecrows reminded me of “Howl’s Flying Castle.”

We stayed in a river house directly across from Nami-sum.

nami-island-river-house
The front porch of our rented house.

The house had a large living room/kitchen combo and three bedrooms. The bedrooms had no furniture; we slept on mats.

The view from the front porch.
The view from the front porch.

That night we had a big barbecue. All the photos I took are rather unbecoming, so while I won’t post them I will, for general edification, note that Korean rice wine (soju) is much nicer than Chinese baijo.

The next morning we got back in the van and made the drive to the Nami Island ferry.

Before going to the island we had lunch: Korean barbecue.

Grilling the chicken, garlic, and onions at our table.
Grilling the chicken, garlic, and onions at our table.

The ferry ride itself was little more than five minutes long.

All of the Nami Island staff wore cowboy hats and florid shirts.
All of the Nami Island staff wore cowboy hats and florid shirts.

Now, the schtick they lay on you at the gate is that Nami-sum declared itself independent from the Republic of Korea. So your day ticket is a Visa, a season pass is a Passport, and so on. There are Namimarian flags and UN flags everywhere. Yes, it’s kitschy, but I enjoyed it. Parts of the island were used for filming a Korea drama/soap called Winter Sonata. When Winter Sonata shoots it, the island looks like this:

winter-sonata

When I shot it, it looked like this:

Why I'm not a cinematographer.
Exhibit A: Why I’m not a cinematographer.

I’m generally not a fan of prepackaged “tourist experience!” type places, but absolutely loved Nami-sum. The island has a number of Korean cultural relics on display: traditional wooden houses, a pottery shop (with potter, pottering), a farm building, carved wooden totems to ward off evil spirits, old-style rice cookers, and so on.

Traditional rice cooker; unwilling human photo subjects for scale and as an attempt to follow "The Rule of Thirds."
Traditional rice cooker; unwilling human photo subjects added for scale and in an attempt to follow “The Rule of Thirds.”
Korean totem
Korean totem
Another Korean totem.
Another Korean totem.
The farm house. We had a start when we discovered two free range emus exploring the foyer.
The farm house. We had a start when we discovered two free range emus exploring the foyer.
Clay sculptures outside the farm house.
Clay sculptures outside the farm house.

Most impressive, I think, were the traditional dancers. In China, the majority of performers at heritage sites came across as surly farm kids begrudgingly going through the motions. Nami Island’s performers were a lively bunch of grandparents who were fun to watch. Some had brought along their grandkids and taught them the dances as the rest performed. The island was nice, the weather agreeable, the water clean & shiny, and I was sorry to leave.

18 Responses

  1. Hi! I’m a singaporean going to Nami Island Jan next year. Just saw your entry and thought you did a great entry! Do you have any idea if there are any hotels to stay on Nami Island? No idea how to get there from Seoul…reply me via my email? 🙂 Thanks loads!

  2. Hi Luke and Denise
    Luke I enjoyed your entry too..Mind copying your answer to Denise’s question pls as I will be in there in Jan too? Denise, mind contacting me via email pls? Thank u both.

  3. Denise
    Obtain the following from TripAdvisor forum take the subway (if you are staying in Myeongdong) – take green line 2 (3 stops to Dongdaemun) change to blue line 1 (4 stops) to “Cheongnangyi subway station at Line 1. Take exit 4, follow the signboard to Cheongnangyi train Station (to your right). Buy a ticket to Gapyeong train station. The ticket cost 3,800 won one way and is a 1.5 hour ride. The train interval is every hour.
    From the Gapyeong train station, you can take a cab to the ferry wharf. There are a lot of taxis outside the Gapyeong train station. Just tell them ferry station or Namiseoum and they will understand. It cost 3,500 won and is only about 5 minutes ride.
    From the ferry wharf, you need to buy the ferry ticket which includes the Nami Island entry ticket, total is 8,000 won. The ferry ride is another 5-10 minutes.
    Coming back is the same. At the ferry wharf, you need to walk straight ahead to the family mart in from of you and there are a lot of taxis waiting there. Just tell them train station. You will have to buy a train station to Cheongnangyi station to go back to Seoul.”

  4. hi, thanks for such great info and photo…anyway, am curious on whether you guys went on your own, or you have tour guide? How difficult it is for someone who do not speak korean to move around seoul and go to nami island?

    thanks a gazillion!

  5. Lynn,
    I found Seoul to be quite English friendly. I imagine you would be able to find your own way to Nami Island, but it would also be easy to find a guided tour.
    Have fun!

  6. Hello Luke:
    Like others I am based in Korea. I am interested in the Hotel.
    Please advise how I can find one on Nami Island.
    Thank you in advance.
    Jacqueline

  7. after reading and looking your photos you made me change my decision now. I decided to proceed for the Nami Tour on October this year. In the beginning I had second thought of going there because I’m thinking of native and naive place. by the way what type camera are you using? I’m also a photo enthusiast.
    thanks

    1. Elen, thanks for the kind words. I hope you’ve enjoyed your trip to Nami Island…I think it’s worth the effort to go!
      I took the photos on a Sony pocket camera, but I’ve since upgraded to a Nikon D40. It makes such a difference!

  8. Hi Luke. About your transportation, where do you get your rented van? And how much did it cost you per day? And from where did you get your tour guide? How mush he/she cost per day? Can the tour guide also drive?

    1. Hi, Nurul, Sorry, but I can’t really answer any of your questions. The van was rented by my boss, who also did the driving. I hope you’re able to find answers somewhere else. Enjoy your trip!

  9. Could you please advise about staying near nami island..can it be covered as a day trip or staying overnight is recommended ? I am planning to go there on Christmas eve .
    Pls reply on email.

  10. Dear Luke,

    I’m Lily from Indonesia, I would like to know if we can stay the night in nami Island. Is there any hotel or guest house in Nami island ? or we have to stay the night in Chuncheon. Thank you

    1. Hi Luke and Lily,
      I’m also from Indonesia and I know it’s kinda bit late but I’m also will go to Nami and planning to stay overnight. I’m in group of 7 people, any of you can give me recommendation on accommodation there? I’m prefer Bungalow style or House/guesthouse.

      Thanks in advance 🙂

  11. Hi, i’m from the Philippines. wanted to go there with friends this july. From Seoul what do we ride and where? And how much? Hoping for your advice soon…Thanks

  12. hi all,
    i have a plan to visit nami island on first week of october 2011, any idea how to explore that island for one trip?

  13. Can you tell me where to take shuttle bus to Nami Sum.I am staying in Dongho-Ro , Joong -Gu, Grand Ambassador Seoul Associated Pullman. Thank You.l